The Identity of Jewelry, Super Designers at Auction

At a time when the value of time is increasingly expressed through memory, identity, and permanence, Faraone Casa d’Aste presents its new Spring Sale, scheduled for May 27 at its headquarters on Via Montenapoleone 9 in Milan, as well as via live streaming on the MyFaraone app and by telephone. The catalogue features 268 lots divided into three
sessions, forming a cohesive narrative that opens with silverware, moves through the heart of vintage jewellery and watchmaking, and concludes with a selection of high craftsmanship, where Buccellati echoing its presence in the opening session. The central core of the auction is dedicated to jewellery, the undisputed strength of the Milan-based auction house, where heritage and contemporaneity coexist in a balance that reflects today’s collecting taste. The 1980s and 1990s return with renewed strength, engaging enthusiasts across automotive, fashion, and jewellery worlds alike, marking the comeback of bold volumes and solid surfaces: chains, necklaces, bracelets, and rings, never so abundant, affirm themselves as expressions of a new physicality in collectible jewellery. Alongside international maisons such as Bulgari, Cartier, Buccellati, Pomellato, David Webb, and Faraone, standout pieces include: a sapphire ring weighing 8.50 ct surrounded by diamonds; an emerald ring weighing 3.40 ct flanked by cushion-cut diamonds; a 3.81 ct diamond; a ring featuring a 3.13 ct octagonal diamond; antique brooches; and iconic creations such as Bulgari’s Gemme Nummarie.  Cartier contributes highly recognizable pieces, including a Love bracelet in its smallest size in rose gold, complete with box, while David Webb and Bulgari complete the selection with bold, statement rings. In the third session, Buccellati signs some of the most representative lots, including a flexible band bracelet with cabochon sapphires, a Gianmaria Buccellati bangle with cabochon rubies and diamonds, a first-edition Hawaii necklace, and rings set with sapphires, emeralds, and coral, all bearing the mark of the Milanese Maison. The watch section brings together some of the most prestigious names: Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger LeCoultre, Rolex, Cartier, and Bulgari, composing a selection that ranges from classic models to distinctive interpretations. Among these, a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date stands alongside technically refined creations such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche in rose gold. Alongside these classics, more contemporary expressions emerge, such as a steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Gonzalo” model, a refined Gérald Genta in white gold and diamonds, and two Vacheron Constantin watches: a ref. 6038 circa 1955 and a Patrimony ref. 6319 from the late 1950s, both in yellow gold with crocodile straps. Completing the selection are a limited-edition Cartier desk clock and a Tank Must de Cartier, both created for the Maison’s 150th anniversary, objects that transform the measurement of time into an aesthetic experience.