An aesthetic renaissance for Soldano

The Sergio Soldano Autumn–Winter 2026–2027 collection marks the beginning of a new chapter for the Genoa-based fashion house, which was acquired in 2024 by the Varese-based Desire Holding Group. “Under the creative direction of Premoli + Di Bella, Sergio Soldano’s aesthetic renaissance reaffirms the value of artistic creativity, Italian excellence, a contemporary vision and the universal language of beauty,” comments the company. The collection comprises 77 garments and 27 accessories, creating a wardrobe that weaves together heritage, artistic exploration and Italian savoir-faire through original silhouettes, fine materials, artisanal craftsmanship and hand-designed prints. Rather than succumbing to nostalgia and faithfully reproducing archival elements from the past, the creative duo charts a new course for the Maison, choosing to pay tribute to the late Maestro Sergio Soldano in a profound yet subtle manner.
THEME 1: The Architecture of Black, the Revelation of the Anemone. Black opens the collection as an expression of a new elegance. Through a sophisticated interplay of leather, silk and artisanal craftsmanship, femininity takes shape in architectural silhouettes and sculpted volumes, where sartorial rigour and sensuality meet in perfect balance.
The anemone, handcrafted petal by petal from fine leather, becomes the distinctive symbol of the theme: not merely a decoration, but a sign of rebirth and strength.
2nd THEME: Genoa, a Return to One’s Roots. ‘La Superba’, the hometown of Maestro Sergio Soldano, becomes the beating heart of the narrative: the place where it all began. Here, memory becomes creative material, the landscape transforms into language and architecture takes on the form of sartorial artistry. The palaces, the monumental vistas and the silent strength of a city layered with history (already celebrated in the 17th century through the eyes of the painter Peter Paul Rubens) are translated into stylised graphic motifs on silk and into voluminous yet sculptural silhouettes.
3rd THEME: Squares in the City, Urban Geometries. The city becomes creative material. Urban trousers, bustiers, silk shirts, kimono-style jumpers and convertible coats come together to form a fluid, contemporary aesthetic. Each garment is designed to be lived in and worn.
4th THEME: The Time of Sinopia, Rebirth. Sinopia is not just a word: it is the primal gesture, the mark that precedes the work, the invisible trace that guides creation. It is also a print, reinterpreted in a contemporary key, which comes to life precisely where it all began. Beneath the arcades of Via XX Settembre in Genoa, where the historic Atelier Soldano once stood, magnificent open-air frescoes are on display, accessible to all, bearing witness to the fact that beauty, like fashion, belongs to those who know where to look for it. Beneath those painted ceilings, the Maestro would pass by every day on his way to his Atelier.